Bukit Takun >> First Rock Climbing in Malaysia
Bukit Takun a huge 300m high monolith located inside Templer
Park Golf Course, about 20km from the city of Kuala Lumpur. Routes were bolted
from 1985, therefore it was possibly the first rock climbing site in Malaysia.
There are about 32 bolted sport and traditional climbing routes until now,
mostly from French grade 6a+ ~ 7a. The unique climb in Bukit Takun is about the
rock formation, the base of the cliff is mostly granite and upper region is
limestone with some stalactite and pinnacle holds. Bukit Takun has a popular
multi-pitch (9pitches) climbing route “Pussey Key” which led you up to the
summit. Its consist of mixed protection routes, first 4pitches are sport
climbing, the rest are trad climbing without bolted anchor, only minimum bolts
are available within each route, therefore you need to place natural protection
gears such as nuts, slings and friends. Some anchors are just a sling tighten
on the tree with a “quick-link” attached to it. Do bring long and more slings, “quick-link”
and be prepared to be left there for anchoring. To lower down to the base, you could repel down
or take the alternative path down. Now
Bukit Takun still remains huge potential of new routes development.
15 May 2011, one of our guides and his "crazy" climbing partner Siewfong has completed the signature multi-pitch route "Pussey key" in 6hrs, 8pitch in total with sport & traditional climbing. read more here