Bukit Takun Expedition - Pussey Key
a long waited project since our 1st attempt, weather was showing good, and we decided to complete the route "Pussey Key", 15-May-2011, gears with us are set of sport climbing gears, 3 BD CAMs, 2 CAMP Tri-cam, a set of Micro-Nuts and 6 shoulder-length slings. with such limited gears of natural pro, that would be substantial distance between each protection or free climb at times.
as usual taking a hike up to the base for about 15mins, reached at the base with no time to waste,quickly gear-up for the ascend. started climb at 08:30, the first pitch started on the stalactite and up follow the crack line, 2nd pitch is my favourite pitch with the traversing to the right. to avoid rope drag, extending quickdraws or sling is a must here.
2nd pitch to 3rd pitch, the only challenging climb is first 3clips on the little steep stalactite, this time we decided to take the new challenge, skip the first 3bolts and climb the new route that straight right up 8m from the anchor point using natural pro, cracks are good and then traversed back left to the 4th fixed protection bolt continue up to the anchor.
as usual taking a hike up to the base for about 15mins, reached at the base with no time to waste,quickly gear-up for the ascend. started climb at 08:30, the first pitch started on the stalactite and up follow the crack line, 2nd pitch is my favourite pitch with the traversing to the right. to avoid rope drag, extending quickdraws or sling is a must here.
2nd pitch to 3rd pitch, the only challenging climb is first 3clips on the little steep stalactite, this time we decided to take the new challenge, skip the first 3bolts and climb the new route that straight right up 8m from the anchor point using natural pro, cracks are good and then traversed back left to the 4th fixed protection bolt continue up to the anchor.
from 3rd to 4th has just 1bolt for 1st clip, use natural pro subsequently until the belay anchor. my BlackDiamond C4 size 3 and 2 fit just nice into that white crack, BD C4 rocks!!! reached 4th pitch belay station at 12:30, had some rest and foods for re-charging. weather was still okay, sun but not too hot. to catch time, we continue after the short break. from here i traversed to right and used a CAM for first protection, and nothing more for natural protection until to the next fixed bolt for about 5m. 2 more fixed bolts from here to the anchor and that was a short climb. Changing belay, swapping the gears and rope management was smooth,fast and safe. seems like we had good teamwork and communication. good job siewfong!
continue from 5th pitch is traditional climbing, no fixed bolt, no sign of direction, tree and cracks the only your protection. so i bet on my guts feeling by taken right from the anchor and climbed up the boulder, i found the sling and carabiner tighten to the tree. that was the only sign of direction to me, scrambling up the vegetation trail and until the vertical wall, climbed up the vertical wall and found a rope fixed on the tree without carabiner, all question came into my mind again,was that a belay anchor? was that tree safe for belay? as the tree looks strong and route from here looks more tricky and will caused bad rope drag, i chosen to belay from here at last.
more photo
Now, another challenge ahead of taking the direction of climb, straight up or to the right?? the wall surface straight up looks flat and can't see any good crack for natural pro placement, ended up follow up right by guessing. plenty of vertical and horizontal cracks along the route, CAMs and Nuts fit just nice. traversed further right up and some loose rock along the route, 1 cleared some loose rock for safety of next climber. up further and hit the solid wall with nice vertical crack, look around my trad rack to find the suitable size of gear, run out of CAMs and Nuts, CAMP Tri-CAM turned up to be the best and only choice. set it many times and keep poping out, lastly got it works. climbed up further and try to look for the belay anchor as almost run through half of rope, out of gears and MR. Thunderstorm was keep alerting us. looking around for the cracks for making my own anchor, at last found the tree with a rope and karabiner. that it's! but the tree looks dried, half-dead. for safety i setup another protection using my sling on the rock for belaying, and left the sling for next climber.
Now, another challenge ahead of taking the direction of climb, straight up or to the right?? the wall surface straight up looks flat and can't see any good crack for natural pro placement, ended up follow up right by guessing. plenty of vertical and horizontal cracks along the route, CAMs and Nuts fit just nice. traversed further right up and some loose rock along the route, 1 cleared some loose rock for safety of next climber. up further and hit the solid wall with nice vertical crack, look around my trad rack to find the suitable size of gear, run out of CAMs and Nuts, CAMP Tri-CAM turned up to be the best and only choice. set it many times and keep poping out, lastly got it works. climbed up further and try to look for the belay anchor as almost run through half of rope, out of gears and MR. Thunderstorm was keep alerting us. looking around for the cracks for making my own anchor, at last found the tree with a rope and karabiner. that it's! but the tree looks dried, half-dead. for safety i setup another protection using my sling on the rock for belaying, and left the sling for next climber.
we thought that was the last pitch for climbing, spent times enjoying the view and photo shooting. then we went free climb from here to the summit, scrambled on the sharp,pinacle rock and what!!! Siewfong discovered another belay anchor on the top, i think that must be the final pitch anchor. so we done 7pitch + 1pitch solo climb.
ksang a.k.a Eddie
20 May 2011
ksang a.k.a Eddie
20 May 2011
